Monday, July 8, 2013

what not box #2......

The brutal H/H continues unabated here in RI. It makes woodworking, or trying to woodwork, a less then enjoyable experience. Doing a self appendectomy would have been more enjoyable then woodworking today. However crappy the weather,  I made it through 4 T-shirt changes, and once I was done with my what not box, I quit.

One thing that worked well in my favor were the new sweat bands I bought from Wally World. They worked very well. I went through 3 of them and it would have been more, but I only have 3.  I didn't get any sweat dripping down my forehead or in my eyeglasses which makes them worth their weight in gold to me.

front corner braces
I put these on last night after dinner. I was thinking of the top rail only being held down with glue and that isn't that strong. I intend to use this rail to hold the top down and the corner braces should lend some solidity and strength to the rail. I also put a couple of screws in the kicker at the front and back to stiffen it up some.

lid for what not box #1
This will work for a lid as it's wide and long enough but it's not thick enough. It's only 3/8"thick and I sized the box lid for 1/2" stock. I'll have to make a side trip to Lowes and get a piece of 6" wide NZ pine.

two small holes to plug
I wasn't sure if I had the half pin big enough to hide the groove. I almost made it but not quite. I really didn't care if I did cover it as I am more concerned with having a large half pin on the corner for strength.

padauk scrap
Why not make the plugs stand out and have someone ask what it is?

why what not box #2 is coming
The back corner block is going to be drilled out for a screw to attach the top. There is a sixteenth of inch clearance here and there isn't enough room for the screw/washer and the what not box.  I can't redo the attachment, so the box has to go. I'll use it for something else.

new lid fit on box #1

rabbets done
I made the rabbets on the loose side because I am going to put at least 3 coats of shellac on this box.  Shellac will effect the fit as I have learned in past projects.

planed the lid
One corner of the lid was a tad bit high at the back. I haven't had good luck planing this NZ pine but this time it went well. I started with a very low set iron taking almost nothing off and kept increasing the depth and checking what I was planing.  The grain on this lid is pretty straight and doesn't have any squirrelly grain patterns in it. I'll take it and next time, if I remember it, I'm going to try my #80 scraper on it and see how it does.

finger grabbie thingie
I got this one facing in the right direction again and it looks ok. I have been looking around for a set of gouges but I can only find them in metric. The gouge I used here is huge and I think it would have been a tad bit easier if I had a smaller gouge to work with.

I had to have a look see
I didn't bother cleaning up the sides to make it fit here. I just did my normal clean up of the tails and pins and that little bit closed a lot of the gap up. I like this idea of the what not box and I hope that this doesn't end up in the boneyard.

last sneak preview

my clock numerals came in
The top ones are 1" high and the bottom ones are 3/4" high.  Now that I have them and I can see them, I have a better idea on how big to make my clock panels.

does it look arts & crafts?
These are not the numerals I wanted but the fonts to make them were free. The ones I wanted were $39 and I couldn't sent them to the laser guy to make my numerals because of licensing crappola. I found lots of free fonts in this style but I was surprised by how many didn't have numbers. I'll keep searching and I'm sure I'll find some out there on the big WWW.

planed some stock
My planer knives have a knick in them and I'm using a chisel to remove it. A set of knives for my planer costs about $60 - I'll keep removing the bump like this until the knives get too dull to use.

two sides, a front and back

what not box #2 all prepped
did the grooves first this time
I have done this grooving first and after I have done it after the dovetailing. I like doing it after the dovetails are done. Because the groove goes all the way end to end, I find sawing a tail on the groove a pain. It also isn't the easiest thing to mark the pins from this tail neither.  It makes better sense to me to do your dovetailing and then the groove. If possible you may be able to bury the groove in a pin socket. If not, fill the hole.

making sure I have sufficient clearance for box #2
glued, squared, and cooking
I'll glue a bottom on this tomorrow and make a lid for it. This won't hold up finishing the table, so it's something I can take my time with.

2nd coat of shellac on box #1 and then it's quitting time
I wanted to get the second what not box glued up and cooking and I did that. This was it for today. Maybe next week end my table will be done and I can start something new.

accidental woodworker

Klipstein's Observation
Any product cut to length will be too short.


  1. Hey Ralph if your planer has 3 knives shift one left the width of the nick and a second to the right the same amount. This will give you less hassle while you wear them out.
    Greg in PA

  2. Hi,
    I've already shifted the knives too many times. I can't shift them anymore to get rid of this last bump.