Sunday, July 7, 2013

almost done......

I got a lot done today but I don't think I'll be painting tomorrow. I still have a few things to complete and once they are done then I can paint. I think I could have got ready for paint but the H/H is brutal today. After my third T-shirt change, I called it a day.

lid idea #1
 When I first thought of this, I thought I had a wonderful idea. I could use up some short scraps and get a lid whose expansion and contraction isn't going to effect opening or closing the lid. However, I came to the realization that the tab running in the groove would be end grain. I don't think that would last too many open/close cycles. This would work ok if it was a lid that was hinged, so I'll keep this in the brain bucket for a future use/try out.

I found a piece of NZ pine that will do for my sliding lid. The opening between the grooves is 5 1/2" and the width of the pine is exactly 5 1/2" and the length is over by about 4". This is one of punch list jobs to complete tomorrow.

ready to plow some grooves
This is my jury rigged clamping of the box sides so I can plow. Because of the dovetails on the ends, I can't clamp it between dogs with a small scrap of wood. This worked and I was able to do my grooves.

small router action
I didn't get a consistent depth with my plowing end to end. It was tapered because I think the clamping board on the far end was a bit bigger then the sides. My small router and the groove are both 1/4" so using it wasn't a problem. I had to remove a little in the middle down to about a 1/16" on the far end.

sawing off the excess
I was going to leave the excess on in case someone had to fix or replace the bottom but I needed to remove it. There isn't that much room between the drawer and the what not box, so it has to go. The bottom isn't glued in so it shouldn't be to hard to remove if need be.

top right hand corner
I went a little nutso when I planed this back piece squaring the edge. I took off a wee bit more than I should have. When I did the dovetails for the back I referenced off the bottom when I marked/sawed/chopped everything. That way the bottom of the back lined up with the plywood bottom.

my thin scrap pile came through again - time to glue and cook this
found a couple of pendulum clocks
I can't plane the drawer right now because I glued the strip onto the back top. I did this with PVA glue so I lose my 100% hide glue glue up.  While that's cooking I started to play with these two. I can't use them on either of the upcoming clock builds though. The clock panels on the two builds are too thick to use either of these clocks. They both work and one of them is a bim/bam movement so I have a third clock project brewing too.

strip cooked - started fitting the drawer
I got the height dialed in and the side to side is the next batter.

between the legs is done - next is fitting between the drawer guides
fitted - still a little snug somewhere
the culprit
I made a mistake in my thinking here. The drawer was still snug and dragging and I assumed it was the sides because I had already gotten the height done. Not so sports fans. The drawer kicker at the back end of the drawer was touching the top of the drawer. I marked that spot and hit it with my small block plane making a hollow there between the lines.

done with the fitting
Drawer fitting is something that I need to improve on. Most of my problems with it are not having a handle on where to remove wood with my planing. The drawer here fits and slides in and out but it's a tad bit sloppy. I removed about a 1/32+ more that I should have from the sides due to planing where I shouldn't have.

blurry fingers at the top - false drawer front at the bottom
This is a piece of scrap leftover from the table top and it's just big enough to overlap the drawer opening on all four sides.

knife wall
I sawed this with my carcass saw on a knife line that I did all the way around.  No fuzzies from sawing. This is the first end I sawed squared. The pencil mark is the amount of overhang I have to split in two for the top bottom overhang.

repeated to get the length - I sawed it 1/2" longer than the opening for 1/4" overhang on the ends
I can live with this but I shot it on my shooting board to the knife wall line
getting ready to set the false drawer front
blue tape to the rescue
Rather then mark directly on the wood I put down some blue painters tape and I'll mark on that. When I was putting the tape on I noticed some ugly looking tear out on the left leg right by the middle of the drawer opening. Something else to add to the punch list.

sneak preview #1
I can't put the shaker knob on until I paint this. I want the knob to remain natural. As for the top and drawer front - something has to be done there. I like shaker furniture and I like simple and plain but this I don't like.  The drawer needs some kind a edge treatment to knock it back down and the top is too big not to have some kind of edge treatment, be it from the top or from the bottom.

it's sharp
This may have taken me a day to sharpen but I did a pretty good job with it. This is one of the back corner braces I'm installing.

glued and screwed in place
I am clamping these in place temporarily and giving them a chance to set up. Once they have tacked up some, I'll screw them and remove the clamps.

back braces done
 The braces ended up a bit proud and I used my small block plane to knock it back down even with the top of the rail. I'd rather have this proud and plane it then have it stick down and stop the what not box from sliding in and out.

cleaning and smoothing the top
electric router work
ditto for the table top
what not box and drawer together
I'm going to have my eyeballs recalibrated and go back to school and learn simple math again. I could have sworn that I would have had a 1/2" gap between the two.

sticks out about a 1/16"
If I shave a little off the back of the drawer and off the two sides of the what not box, I should be alright. One more thing to add to the punch list.

sneak preview #2
I like this look much better then preview #1. I've been looking around and reading what I can about molding planes but there isn't a lot written on the end grain treatment.  Such as can you use the same plane on the long and end grain? I did read one blurb an author wrote on how to carve the profile on the end grain. I have a few molding planes (beader and chamfer) and they absolutely suck at planing anything even remotely resembling end grain. And the chamfer plane is worse then the beader. I'll keep on digging and reading because I would like to get rid of my electric routers.

accidental woodworker

The Cardinal Conundrum
An optimist believes that we live in the best of all possible worlds. A pessimist fears that this is true.


  1. Table looks great!

    Jim B

  2. Hi Jim,
    sorry about the lateness on this comment - I just found it in my spam.