Saturday, February 13, 2016

replacement LN honing guide.........

I burrowed a line from the movie 'Support your local sheriff" with James Garner and Harry Morgan. I'm paraphrasing the line from memory,  "...we ordered them from St Louis but they ain't arroved yet". Well we have an arctic wedge bringing some ungodly cold air down from up north to the eastern seaboard. This morning when I went to work it was 8°F (-13°C). The upcoming weekend is supposed to be even colder with wind chills down below -15°F (-27°C). It's going to be a wee bit chilly in my part of the universe and winter has finally arroved.

Before I got to play with the new LN Honing guide, I played with the dial board on the new clock. I hadn't planned on doing this because I'm using hide glue and the shop is cold. The clock was on the bench and I had to move it to play with the honing guide so.....I had to see if what I thought of last night during dinner would work. From there I went to just gluing one block in place to doing all 3.

idea was and wasn't working
 I had this block glued in place and I had a small F clamp on it too. That is when I realized that I had glued the block on the bottom and not the top where it belonged. One point for hide glue, none for me. What I couldn't do, for whatever reason, was duplicate this dance step at the top.

another hiccup solved
One problem I was having was I couldn't get all three blocks dry pinned in place flat on the dial board on the workbench. I could get the two side ones set but the top one would be off. Being a problem solver, I put the top one in first and then the two side ones. I got all 3 dry pinned but the top block was proud of the dial board. After putzing with this for a while I finally thought to use a nice flat surface like my tablesaw. On this surface, I finally got all 3 dry pinned and all 3 laying flat on the dial board.

another hiccup
I should have left the pins long and then cut them after I glued the blocks in place. The filed to size pins were too short to be of any help in setting the blocks. I wanted a 1/8" set back from the edge and I was able to do that after I made 3 new longer pins.

fuzzy picture
 I am checking to ensure that the blocks are square to the carcass sides.

I was able to glue all 3 in place and apply some weight
After these set for a few hours and before I turned in for the night, I pulled the pins and put some clamps on the blocks and set it by the furnace.

Yesterday I got a replacement honing guide from Lie Nielsen. They sent it back to me with one day shipping. When I called LN to check on it, the girl told that the one I sent back wasn't square and she didn't mention anything about the LH skew jaws not fitting. She also said I must have dropped it or it got rattled in shipping. I have never dropped that honing guide. I always treated it like I was holding a new born baby whenever I used it. I never played the bounce test with it once.

replacement LN guide
This is one thing I never checked on this guide. I never fully closed the jaws on each other to see if they closed squarely. I went back and read my previous posts I did on the LN guide and I didn't see or read anything like this. The guide not closing squarely would surely effect how the jaws would be able to clamp on a small tool.

The good thing is I have it back and I can touch up my chisels before I do the dovetails for my coffee filter box. I checked the replacement 30° LH skew jaws that they fit on both sides of the honing guide. After I checked that I also did the same for my other sets of jaws. Everything fit, right side up or backwards and on both sides. I am glad that I got it back so quickly - LN customer service is top notch.

standard jaws in the back  small chisel jaws in the front
 From reading my previous posts, the LN 1/8"cocked in the jaws of the small chisel jaws. I couldn't get it parallel to the jaw top/bottom. I had the similar problems with my Ashley Isles 1/8" chisel. The jaws on my original honing guide not being square could definitely cause this problem.

LN 1/8" chisel in the new guide
The chisel is secured, not cocked and the back of the chisel is parallel to the top of the guide.

I've got the guide finger tight
I can't budge this chisel at all. I am pushing against it with all I have and it isn't moving. Problem solved. The chisel fits in the guide.

the original honing guide with the LN 1/8" chisel
This is what I had the first time I tried the small jaws and the LN 1/8" chisel. You can see that the chisel is cocked in the jaws. It never occurred to me, even here, that the honing guide was at fault.

another pic of the original guide and the LN 1/8" chisel
If you make this pic big, you can see that the jaws aren't parallel. The right hand jaw in the pic looks to be running out to the right. I never looked at this as I assumed this was a brand new honing guide and what could be wrong with it? I thought the problem was the chisel.

I had noticed a short while after I got the guide that the closer the jaws got together, the stiffer it was turning the screw down.  It was not so easy to turn it with just finger pressure. Once the guide was opened about a 1/3 of the way the screwing action was smooth and easy. It didn't occur to me that maybe there was something wrong with the guide such as it being out of square. I thought that the stiff action as it closed up was due to sharpening stuff getting on the threads or on the center wheel.

double checking the new LN guide action
I ran this out and in several times. The action of the screw was silky smooth on all the in/out action. This is something that I will keep an eye on. I'll be checking it every time I use the guide and before I put it away.

had to check this
The LN left hand 30° skew jaws and my Lee Valley right hand rabbet plane iron. This is tantalizing close to being right on. It is certainly looking at lot better than it did in the RH skew jars.

not quite flat on the stone
I fiddled with this for a while and this is the best I could get it.

shifted the jig on the stone
It's better but I still don't have 100% contact on the bevel.

took 3 strokes
I only got some marks on the back at the heel on the outside edges. I didn't even get one scratch any where on the face of the bevel.

two black marks
The two black marks correspond to the same spots on the plane iron.

There much joy and rejoicing in Mudville again. My guide is now working as it should. My LN honing guide now will sharpen every chisel and iron that I have except for the LV rabbet plane. I may buy another O-1 iron for it just to experiment with. Damian was right, I needed the LH skew jaws to sharpen the RH iron. I still can't get my brain bucket to compute that but I'll take it as it is for now. I'll try to understand it after my headache goes away.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
If you impignorated, what have you done?
answer - pawned something

Friday, February 12, 2016

clock hiccups.......

I thought that I would do something with both projects on the bench tonight. That didn't happen sports fans. The roughly flattened lid I did yesterday had cupped again so it's not done moving yet. Other than giving it dumb looks, that was it for the coffee filter box. I spent the remaining hour playing with the clock.

1/8" spacer
The dial board is set back in an 1/8" and this plywood is an 1/8".  I'll lay the dial board on this and the block holes should line up with the carcass holes.

I took the time to make and plane to fit, two spacers for the sides and two for the top and bottom.

side to side is good
I forgot to square the ends of the dial board. The top is dead nuts square and the bottom has a teeny hollow in it. Since I'm only putting a block at the top, I'll use the spacer just at the top.

wasn't paying attention
I didn't want to leave these as all square lines and I didn't want to put a profile on it that would interfere with the clamping. This round over is on the bottom and will reduce the glue area so I'm going to make another one.

this hole is critical
I have to get this one dead nuts so that it matches the other two. If it is off even a little bit I'll have toss all three and make 3 new ones.
came out ok
I clamped all three blocks down to the bench and pushed the brass rod through all three. That told me I got the new block hole in line with the other two. Here I'm marking for the length of the pin.

filing it off
The blue mark is the OAL (over all length) of the pin to the outside edge of the block. I'm filing the pin off to the inside of that. This way the pin will be slightly recessed and I can apply epoxy in that to glue the pin to the block. That will keep the dial board from moving L/R and Up/Down.

first hiccup
The dial board is inset a bit more then 1/8".  This will make setting and clamping the blocks a little more difficult. The block holes and the carcass holes were off. I had to make some cardboard shims to get the alignment right between the two.

second hiccup
The pin is loose in the hole. I purposely drilled this a 64th over to allow room for epoxy. The pin is wobbling now making setting the block correctly a PITA. The next clock, this hole will be the size of the rod I use.

scraped the shellac where the blocks be glued
After I get the blocks glued in place and the pins epoxied in them, I'll apply a couple coats of shellac. This scrape job will disappear then.

quit here
I had been brain farting for a while at this point trying to come up with a way of gluing these blocks in place and everything I thought of was toast. I was starting to get frustrated and decided to quit before I really got pissed off.

 During dinner I thought of something and I'll try it tomorrow. I'll be using hide glue to secure these blocks and not yellow glue. I'm going to use a rub joint on the blocks initially. The blocks will be glued in their respective spots with the pin (no epoxy) holding them in the correct position.  I'll let that set up for an hour or so and then pull the pin out and take the dial board out. Then I can clamp the block overnight.

 Once the blocks are glued in place, the next step will be to epoxy the brass pins in place. Hopefully the blocks didn't move and the pins will line up with the holes in the block and the carcass. If that went south on me I can apply water and heat and remove the blocks and start over.

 It looks like I'll be gluing the top block in as one gluing operation. I may be able to glue the two side ones in at once. Part of my frustration here was trying to do all 3 at once. It'll take a little longer to do this way but it should work.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is the most common disease in the world?
answer - Hepatitis B