Sunday, February 1, 2015

my saturday shop putterings.....

The side roads around my house are finally starting to clear up and get down to bare pavement. There are few streets that are toast and covered with snow still. These are the least traveled streets in my neighborhood. The street I live on is heavily traveled and used to get to other streets. And just when things are getting back to normal, the forecast has wonderful news.

Starting late on sunday night going into the monday morning commute it will be snowing. The forecast is now saying it's a major storm and Massachusetts is already putting out storm warnings. We just got a couple of feet of snow and we are scheduled to get 12" more. It this pans out, I'll have a another day in the shop cause I won't be driving to work in that crap.

back to the long rails
Started the day working on the long rails and immediately I was confused. I had all four uprights on the bench and I had the left and right ones paired together. What was confusing me was working on fitting the mortise on an upright and then trying to fit it's mating mortise/tenon on the opposite upright. I did manage to get this long rail here fitted to the correct uprights.

one set of long rails done
separated the rails
I'll only have one set of long rails on the bench so I shouldn't get confused as to what mortise and tenon to fit where.

left over problem from yesterday
From yesterday's hiccups I now have to deal with skinny tenons. One thing I did yesterday was fitting the tenon in the wrong mortise. Instead of fitting into the long rail mortises, I was fitting them into the side short rail mortises. I did get them to fit in the wrong mortises snugly and they were self supporting.  But because the mortises are all different sizes, the short rail tenons don't fit in the long rail mortises.

hinge mortise plane workout coming up
I don't have any pine to make two new rails so I have to work and fix what I have. I made a light pass with the plane to ensure that all the cheeks were flat and even.

yes I'm a pack rat
All the off cuts from sawing cheeks ended up in this drawer. I then use them when I clamp something up in the dogs on the wagon vise. I'll be using some of these cheek cutoffs on the long rails.

gluing them on the skinny tenons
I glued these on the two rails and set it by the furnace to cook for a few hours.

dry clamp and checking one sub ass'y
The top rail is square on both sides.

the bottom isn't
this diagonal is 3/8" shorter than the other one
got it square
I was a bit worried about getting this square because of the bone headed way I made it. The two diagonals are dead on and all the shoulders are tight and gap free on the uprights.  It's now break time while I wait for the new tenons to cook.

2 hours later and ready for round two of tenon fitting
FYI - listen to the inner voice
It was telling me that I had set the iron for too deep of a cut. I said the iron is sharp, it's a wedging action and I'll be fine. It was a little hard to get it going so I put some weight into it and this happened. Thou shalt not take to deep of a cut. Trying to make up for some lost time bit me on the butt again. Now I'll have to glue this and let this cook before I can finish round two.

shoulders are somewhat tight
You can see where I overshot on my under cutting the short side of the shoulders. The short side is tight and gap free but the long side has chisel version of a hammer 'rosebud'.

3 long rails fitted and one left to do
see what I'm doing wrong here?
I am fitting the long rail tenon in the short rail mortise. I didn't catch this until I was done. The corresponding long rail mortise it was supposed to go in, it was loose. It fits but it isn't self supporting. I'll try and draw bore these joints to beef them up. Especially so on this one.

dry fit
In spite of the way I prepped the stock, the dry fit is square. I didn't have to crank down on the clamps to get any of the joints to close up and seat. I did notice that 3 of the long rails were slightly twisted but I had no problems getting the mortises and tenons aligned.

I guess I'm used to the height of the first rack because I don't like the low height of this one. I'm already thinking about making a new one and making it 12" higher.  This rack has a better, more stable footprint then the first rack. I think it'll hold the same amount of clothes too. Tomorrow I'll do the glue up and decided on a paint color.

splitting out some dowel stock
 My first attempts to split dowels I used some small pieces of  3/4 scrap. That didn't split well and it's the pile to the left. The better looking splits on the right I split out of 3/4" thick x 3" wide scraps. This stuff split into nice even looking billets.

I haven't hardened this froe yet and I didn't have any problems splitting any of this stock. The edge of the froe doesn't show any signs of use, not even a scratch. Maybe for this purpose I don't have to harden it?

started at 1/2" and ended at 1/4"
I beat the snot out of these banging them through the holes. I showed no mercy and took no prisoners. Not one of these broke on me beating them through any of the holes.

the end I beat with the hammer
This is EYP I am making dowels out of. This rived stock is plenty strong enough if it can handle the abuse making them.

I'll be rethinking this
This is a bit of a pain using this setup to make dowels. I need this height so the dowel will clear the bottom of the jig. The dowel sometimes falls out on to the floor. I'll be making something new for the next time I make dowels.

3/16" on the left 1/4" on the right
I decided to go with 3/16" dowels based on the size on the rails I'm using on the rack. I bashed out 14 of the 1/4" dowels one more time through the 3/16" holes. I expected some losses here because of the size of the dowel and me not lighting up on the hammer blows. I only broke one dowel and I have half of it that I can still use. This convinces me rived stock is the way to make these.

sawed some 1/2" x 1/2" billets
I have to compare sawed out stock to the stock I split out.

first one
I got the first one beat through the 1/2" hole about half way before a chunk split off of it.

the 3rd one
I was able to get the second one through the 1/4" hole intact. The 3rd split out like the first one did. So did the the 4th and 5th ones also. I didn't try anymore of the sawed billets after the 5th one.

the 4th one
the 5th one
This one splintered and that piece flew off somewhere in the shop. Sawed billets don't hold up to the hammer blows no where as well as the rived stock does. The failures I had all split and fractured on the first hole and none of them made it through it.

my new 6" rule
The bottom one is the new one I got today in the mail. I have been searching for a rule like this and I saw it last week on an episode of the Woodsmith shop. I ordered it that day. This ruler makes sense to me. The numbers go in the same direction no matter which way you read it. And most important to me is the scale is the same on both sides.

I find it incredibly annoying with the rules I have that not only do the numbers switch R/L but the scales swap also as you switch to the opposite side of the rule.

got the 12" rule too
 One obvious difference in the two 12" rules is the Woodsmith rule is very easy to read. Even in the glare of the shop lights I can readily see the numbers and the lines. I think I have got a keeper here.

opposite side of the Woodsmith rules
The front is marked in1/16ths and the back is a center rule on one edge and marked in 1/16ths on the other edge. I'm not a fan of center rules - I have 2-24" center finding rulers that I hardly ever use mostly because the marks are in 64th's and it's hard for me to read. They are not the easiest rules to use to find center. The Woodsmith rules are marked quite differently and these are easy to decipher.  I may actually use these center finders.

second toy came today
This is a 1" ovolo plane that was offered up for $36. The price was good and the pics of the plane body looked good so I pulled the trigger on it. On first look I could tell that this plane hadn't been used for many, many, many, moons. I was surprised by the fact that I was able to get the wedge unseated with two whacks. The iron I had to drive out by hitting the tang with a hammer.

check off another profile I wanted
I don't think this crud is wood
it's a lump of rust
the tang is rusty in a couple of spots too
the front cleaned up a bit
The front of the iron appears to be in good shape. There isn't any pitting and the profile cleaned up with sandpaper.

two pits on the back
One pit is far from the edge and other is a bit too close for my liking. Both the pits appear to be light and neither is deep so maybe I'll dodge the bullet here. I sandpapered and wire brushed all the obvious rust spots. I'll let this soak overnight in the last of my Evapo-Rust.

Tomorrow is the Super Bowl but that is on later in the evening. I should be able to get the rack cooked and this plane cleaned up and making shavings. With this plane I will now be out of room in the molding plane till. It didn't even take 6 months to fill this one up.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What two teams played in the first Super Bowl game in 1967?
answer - Green Bay Packers and Kansas City Chiefs      Green Bay won 35-10

Saturday, January 31, 2015

almost no shop time tonight.......

When I got home tonight from work there was a mountain of snow in front of my driveway. This isn't taking into account the two skyscraper mounds on either side.  What was greeting me was what the plow had deposited in between them. I think that he was a sadistic SOB because it looks like he did it from both sides. So instead of unwinding in the shop, I got to play with snow for over an hour. But the road is finally down to bare pavement.

from the back door looking out to the street
The nice flat wall on the skyscraper was where I stopped shoveling. My truck had brushed against both sides of the driveway skyscrapers when I pulled into it. This side I would estimate I had to shovel back 4 feet to get to the wall.

left side skyscraper has a few more floors
The left side I only had to shovel back a couple of feet. My wife and I both turn into the driveway from the right side so I concentrated on my removal efforts there. This certainly was not what I wanted to be doing at the end of the work day. And there is a follow up storm forecasted for sunday night into monday morning bringing more of this white crappola.

I didn't get in any shop time playing Mr Woodworker but I am declaring box #2 done. All that is left is to do the final rub out with 4-0 steel wool and wax. It's not something terribly exciting and I'll spare you the pics and verbiage. Use your imagination there.

99.99% done
 I now have 3 of these style of boxes completed only using hand tools. Making the lids, the grooves, and the dovetails I would rate myself ok. What I need to improve on is my 4 squaring and getting the boards parallel, flat, and straight. And also getting multiples to have the same dimensions.

In spite of my having less then stellar results dimensioning my stock, all the boxes came out square. It makes me think that going nutso trying to get everything within +/- 1 micron isn't necessary. I may not be shooting for micron exactness but I think getting a finger tip feeling exactness is doable.

I might have to learn how to carve
Carving is nothing more than chisel work. I think that I am much more competent with chisels now than I was a year ago. I also think this flower would look a lot better if I carved it out of the lid. LN sells a Auriou carving starter set and maybe I'll start there.

back end
The only thing I see wrong here is the two padauk plugs I used in the holes left by making the groove straight through the tails. The groove was made a bit deeper on the left side so I had to use a bigger chunk of padauk there. I think this was the result of me flushing the top before I made the grooves. From the front you can't see it and the lid is square to the sides and the back. The lid also isn't tilted or slanted from side to side.

I'm sure that daughter #1 won't notice any of these quibbles I have with this box. For me the main goal was to make a functional box with just hand tools. I have done that and now I have to work on the ooh and aah factor.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is the maximum length and thickness allowed for a major baseball bat?
answer - 42" length and  2 1/4" thickness