Tuesday, September 2, 2014

when's the next day off......

I wish that I could operate in civilian mode. I'm still acing in military mode and I've been out for almost 20 years.  Over half of the people I work with took either friday off or tuesday off. From the scuttlebutt I'd been hearing, these days off are planned years in advance. By the time I realized this was a long weekend, my request for friday off was shot down. Maybe by the time I can draw social security I'll figure out how to get a request in on time.

I don't know which measuring system I used here but I won't be using it again.  This door panel is beyond OTL and deserves to be in a category of it's own with it's own unique name. I'll be making a new door panel.

door parts loosely in place
I can get a new panel out of a 1x12 as long as it's 11 1/4" or wider. I bought a 1 x12 a while a ago that was 11" wide. It looks the nominal is shrinking.

I'll use the first door to make a second shelf

2 - four foot #3 common pine 1x8's
First third or so on both is crap but the right side is mostly all clear.

new door panel on the left - box material on the right
removing a slight cup and a bow
board #2 is pretty good
Board #1 had a bow and cup to remove. Board #2 was pretty flat and I didn't have to do much to it. I'm not that concerned about keeping the thickness of these boards close to 3/4". Whenever they end up being, as long as it's thicker then the groove width, I'm ok with it.

quick smoothing of one face on each board to help with the glue up
not too bad of glue joint as is from the store
practice edge squaring
I tried to edge joint each board individually and see how good of a glue joint I could make. I did good on one side but when I flipped it I had a gap. I put both boards together and planed both edges square. The glue joint came out good on both sides of the boards.

Since this door is going to be painted I didn't go nutso grain matching. Once the glue joint line looked good I glued it up and set it aside to cook.

cleaning up the grooves
The groove on the bottom rail on the exit side wasn't square. I used my small router plane to correct that and then used the same setting on the other grooves to ensure the groove depth was consistent on all.

decided to make a through tenon
squared up one end on each rail
shot both to the same length
I got the overall length of the rails by placing one rail on the opening and knifing it. I then transfered that to the other rail. I can't feel any difference in the length of these two.

rail is a smidgen bigger then the stile
x marks the reference
I made the groove and all my measurements off of the face marked with the X. As long as I continue to do that I shouldn't have any hiccups. I can flush up the fat rail after the door is together and it has cooked.

tenon length knifed on the rails
got my tenons marked
sawed the shoulders on the rails
I just sawed the shoulders on the rails. After I got the mortises chopped I sawed out the cheeks and fitted them.

I caught this
I had marked 3 long tenons which would have made one tenon fit a bit too loose. This left tenon mortise should be a short one. I re-marked it and I should be ok as long I remember this.

my 1/4" sash mortise chisel

I used this mostly to clean up mortises I did with my hollow chisel mortiser. I made only one set of mortises with this chisel before and they didn't work out. I want to keep this 100% hand tool only so I'm going to have to pony up and do it.

I've read that you should do the mortise first and then the groove. I've also read it the other way around. I did the groove first and then the mortise because I wanted the walls of the groove to help me keep the chisel square and plumb.

my horns aren't that big
I didn't want to risk busting out the end of the mortise so I clamped it. It helped or at least I didn't blow out any of the mortises at the end.

long mortises one from each side
They look to be plumb and square although the walls are a bit ragged out.

the short ones are about the same
Making the mortises and using the groove was a big help. The chisel was almost a dead nuts match in the width. The groove kept me from twisting the chisel as I chopped. I didn't have a groove to help me when I chopped from the opposite side. There I took my time and made sure I was in between the lines and the chisel looked plumb before I whacked it.

sawing out my tenon cheeks
I used to saw these in the leg vise but I find that to be a bit awkward. I would put the rail in the vise with the face up against the bench and then saw it. The awkwardness for me came from being offset from what I was sawing. Parallax and whole bunch of other technical verbiage. Doing it in the wagon vise allows me to be centered and in line with what I'm sawing. It gives me better control when I saw.

sawed them fat and got some webs
stayed just outside and left my lines
I got fat tenons here. I don't saw well enough to do these off the saw. For now I leave them fat and trim them to fit.

trimming the cheeks is the next batter
I found using these tenon planes that they work best for me if I take a very shallow cut. I have 3 of them and I use them one after another. I got all of these trimmed up with these 3 without having to change the depth on any of them.

door frame is done
There is a bit of unevenness at the rail and stile junctions but that's to be expected as I didn't ensure that the stock was all the same thickness before hand. One shoulder line on the back is a bit out of square. Overall I'm happy with this considering it was all done with hand tools.

sizing the door panel
The sizing starts with a rip cut on the two sides. I measured over R/L from the glue line to get my rough width equalized.

cleaned up
I checked for twist on both sides and there was none. I cleaned up and flattened both faces with the #7. I then did a final smoothing with the #4. The thickness isn't perfect but it will ok to use for the door panel.

squared one edge and knifed the line for the finish width
After I got the width parallel I squared one end and marked for the finished width. I sawed and squared up that. Making the rabbet is next.

been a while since I've used my rabbet plane

I'm very happy with this
Getting my corners even when I used my rabbet plane has always been a hit or miss for me. Mostly it's a miss, miss, miss, and another miss. This time I almost nailed it 100%. There is a tiny bit there but this is a huge improvement for me. My rabbet is reasonably square and I'll fine tune that with my tenon and shoulder planes.

checking the groove with a scrap piece of the door
I'm going with a flat panel in my door. I'll put the rabbeted side on the interior and I'll plane a bevel on that to lighten it up and take away the sharp edges.

this sucks
I know exactly how and why this happened. The first bone headed thing I did was to measure the opening. I measured this 6 times and got 45 different measurements. Did this make me take my head out of my ass? No it didn't. I thought I would remember the correct measurement and since I'm a big boy and wearing my big boy pants, I can do it this way.

I usually mark the grooves on the outside of the door and mark the panel directly off of them. Not doing that was mistake #2. This puts a serious crimp in the schedule for getting this done. I'll set this panel aside and maybe I can use it when I make my molding plane cupboard.

another potential problem
I have to plane a 45 on both of the stiles of the door so it will fit the opening. I didn't think that far ahead when I decided to make through tenons. It may work in my favor because of the length of the tenons. The 45 only takes away a bottom portion of the tenon and some of the stile. Looking at it here, I don't think it'll be a problem.

power station work
The box for this is going to be nailed and glued with butt joints. I used plywood because I didn't want any issues with solid wood.

gluing block
I glued a 3/4 x 3/4 piece of pine at each end on the front and back pieces. I'll then glue and nail the sides to these.

test my molding idea
This was an extra one of the gluing blocks. I sawed a 1/2 x 1/2 chunk out of it.

I'll use these at the four corners
I scrounged through my scrap pile and dug up a bunch of 6/4 and 8/4 pieces of red oak. I'll use them to make all the moldings for hiding the the plywood end grain.

rough wiring done
I got all my pigtails oversized and ready to go. I will wire up the receptacles before I do the final glue up. This way I won't have to scream, shout, and curse working in a shoe box sized space.

I can make the shelves for the corner cupboard but the new door panel will have to wait until next weekend. In the interim I'll concentrate on the power/charging station. My wife read one of my blog posts and is now asking for daily updates on it. I'm not making are predictions on this as my crystal ball is obviously faulty.

accidental woodworker

more useless trivia
If you weigh 182 pounds in the United States, what would you weight in stones in England, and how many kilograms would it be in France?
answer - 13 stone in England and roughly 83 kilograms in France

Monday, September 1, 2014

A look back post #3 of et al.........

The desk my wife has been using is a table that my last place work place was throwing away. I brought it home and my wife used it as her desk for several years. Last week she decided she needed a change and a smaller desk. She asked if she could use mine and I said yes. My desk was sitting unused in the boneyard; might as well be put back to use.

I made this desk in the early 90's out of 2x4's I got from Home Depot along with 3/4" MDF and a piece of green formica that I got on clearance. As you can see I went for a craftsman look and my multiple slats.

it's held up
Joe McGlynn wrote a post about these clips failing on him over time. I've been using them for at least 25 years without a problem. I have four corner braces  and these clips holding the MDF down to the desk aprons. But his failed on wood and mine is mostly MDF.

I'm trying to think why I put a piece of MDF underneath the bearers. I think it was because I used a doubled up MDF edge. By putting a piece of MDF under the bearer I didn't have to notch it.
through mortise
I did through mortises all around and pegged them with dowels. I didn't draw bore them, just drilled a hole and stuck a dowel with glue into it.  The bearers have dowels on the front and biscuits on the inside. I don't remember if the dowels are bungs hiding screws or if they are dowels.

a boatload of slats
Each one of these slats is in an individual mortise. I can recall doing these and it took me a few days to do them all. There are not quite a 100 mortises for the slats.

formica top
I got this for a song because the sheet was cracked. I was able to salvage it and that is what dictated how big my desk ended up being. This desk is one of two things that I have used MDF for. After 20 years the desk still looks good to me. The top is straight and flat with no dips or ripples. It doesn't have any drawers but that was on purpose. Drawers weren't something I did a lot of back then.

the underneath of the credenza
I made this to hold my printers and reference books. I didn't want any center supports or legs in the middle and this is what I came up with. I read about this bracing somewhere and it has held up for me. The bottom shelf hasn't sagged and still looks straight.

I made this out of green formica, MDF, 2" square railings, and #2 pine. And my z clips to hold everything in place.

stretcher half lap
I think it still looks good
the hole left from where the desk and credenza once lived
it's new home in my wife's sewing room
she told me this isn't the permanent set up
the old desk/table
This table weighs a ton. I think that this is oak or maybe ash. I'm leaning in the direction of oak because it's so heavy. I'm thinking of using this to make a sharpening bench/table. I might have to buy some stock to make legs but I can definitely get the top out of this.

 A nice trip down how I did it years ago. After looking over the desk and credenza, I don't think I would do it any different today. The MDF and formica have held up in my cellar den for at least the past 15 years. I can't be sure but I think I applied a coat of poly to the underside of the desk and the credenza. Poly was my go to finish back then and maybe that helped to preserve these two.

I like the longevity of my projects. I think my oldest one is a drill bit box I made when I was 22. Rabbeted, glued, and nailed together 5 pieces of plywood. Still together with no degradation of the joinery at all. A whole lot of dirty but I've heard that it's called patina.

accidental woodworker

more useless trivia
Who was the last man on the moon?
answer -  Eugene Cernan, Commander of Apollo 17