Wednesday, October 1, 2014

plane till cooked.......

I have way too many things on my plate right now. I feel like I'm being pulled in 8 different directions at the same time. I'm working on the plane till, a new moxon vise, rehabbing a #4, making a dinning room table for daughter #2, repairing a victorian table for my wife, and putting the finishing touches on a xmas gift box.  I'm sure there are a few others items I can't remember right now or are lying around undone.

After I got done playing in the shop tonight I sat down and did some prioritizing. I thought about what I absolutely have to do near term and what I can let slide for the far term. I got my A & B lists done and I'll try and stick to it. But with the way my attention span wanders and changes, it's best that I don't carve anything in stone.

first batter
I glued this up with hide glue and I let it cook for 24 hours. I got lucky that temps were it in the high 70's while this cooked. I got no creaks or groans when I removed the clamps.

my wedges 
I did remember to chisel a slight bevel on the outside edges of the mortises but I didn't do the saw cuts for the wedges in the tenons. I didn't notice it until I had the till glued and cooking.

side view
The wedges aren't really exerting any wedging action. My tenons are a pretty good fit, so I'm relying on them and dadoes to keep them in place. The wedges were tapped in just a hair more than being seated and filling the space. I will also be sawing the tenons flush because of the wedge mishap.

flushed them with my dozuki
clean up toys
The big block plane is used for the heavy removal and the smaller one is to finesse and flush up the tails and pins.

used the bench as a planing stop
The stool is at the perfect height for planing the till and using the mass of the bench to my advantage.  This setup worked much better then using the stool against the lally column which is what I usually do. The till was more stable this way and less prone to shifting and moving. Duh.

block or a bench plane
I have used both planes for cleaning up tails and pins. I have used a  #3, #4, and jack planes for this and I prefer to use the block planes. I've found that for me using a block plane, I get less tear out. My next favorite plane to use is the BU jack. I think this really excels at cleaning up the end grain of the tails. The one problem I have with it is getting ahead of myself and planing too far past the tails and pins. This is where I usually go head to head with the tear out and let loose with some choice expletives.

#4 knocking down the high spots
#7 flushes up
I did the flushing in two parts. I kept the heel on the center divider and ran the plane around the outside on the left and then the right. I repeated this dance step for the bottom.

back boards
I have a choice of using 1/2" or 3/8" stock for the back. I'm going to ship lap the boards if I use the 3/8" and try to tongue and groove them with my match planes if I use 1/2".  That will mostly likely depend upon which is cheaper. I'll need 6 boards of either 24" long and I'll have about 6" left over for making boxes.

too small
I tried to use my sector to get a 8 part layout for the the back boards but it is too small.

stepped it off with my 6" dividers
two plane till off cuts
These two off cuts will be used to make the panels for the door. I don't want to glue up any stock for the panels so I'll play around with the width of the center and two outsides stiles. A rough check showed that I can get away with 3" for the outside ones and the center one will be about 2 3/8".

since I'm painting  Durham's will fill in the sins
all the small parts are rust free and clean
it'll be reused
I like this evaporust stuff a lot. It's safe to handle and get on you and you can flush in down the drain without calling the EPA. This is dirty looking but I'll pore it back in the bottle and I'll be able to reuse for the next rehab. It's a lot safer and easier to use then electrolysis.

lateral adjust
It drops right on the pin but it won't stay put.

I'm going to try and peen it
This ball peen hammer is the smallest one I got. It's the only ball peen hammer I have. I thought I had a smaller one in my old medical repair kit but I couldn't find it. This is too big to do the peening. The peen is too large for the small area I have to try and peen in.

my warrington hammer to the rescue
it worked
I'm pushing against the lateral adjust with my finger and it's not moving. I can move the lever left and right. It is a bit stiff but I can move it without undue resistance.

brass knobs
These are the two knobs for the tote and the front knob. They are not the same size. The brass one for the front knob is bigger then the one in the tote. I have rehabbed quite a few planes and this is the first time I've noticed this.

I can see a slight difference in them
I need to put the plane back together so I can set it aside for now. I don't want to lose anything so I got it all loosely screwed together. The tote and knob I'll leave unattached for now.

got my moxon parts in today
sleeve bearing is too big
I ordered the wrong size
I made another order out to McMaster-Carr for the correct id sleeve bearing. I must have seen the 3/4" and just ordered it without looking at the other measurements. I'll stick these two in the junk drawer with my other orphan parts.

 I also added a pack of 8mm set screws to the order for my mortise machine. The set screw on the hold down stripped out and Lowes or Home Depot doesn't sell that size. I had bought a 8mm thumb screw with this order but it will be in the way if the hold down is set down low. I'll still need the set screw for thin stock.

accidental woodworker

more useless trivia
6 presidents played musical instruments - Jefferson, Tyler, and Nixon played the violin. Truman and Nixon played the piano and Clinton played the saxophone.  What instrument did Calvin Coolidge play?
answer - the harmonica

Tuesday, September 30, 2014

it's a #4......

On sunday, after I got the plane till glued and cooking, I took a break from the shop. I went to Still Water antiques to see what was to be had that I couldn't possibly live without. There are two dealers there that have tools all the time but I think they watch too much antique road show. The prices they have for some of their offerings border on the ridiculous and the descriptions should be in a comic strip.

As an example one dealer had a #6 hollow plane for $45 and said it was a 3/4" molding plane. It was way over priced as it had a broken wedge, a chipped iron, and warped sole. I only look here because he does have a lot of molding planes for sale. I may find one that I want and I'll then have to decide if the $ asked is worth it.

The other dealer labels every single wooden plane as a molding plane and each one costs $25. What type of plane it is or it's condition doesn't change anything. Parts missing or broken and you still have to pony up $25. 99.9% of what he offers should be fed to a fire but I look because you never know unless you do.

bought this
I saw this in one of the last booths I was looking at on my way out. The price was reasonable, $20, and it had a small bench plane which I thought was a #3, and a block plane, a couple of irons, and a lateral adjust lever. If I hadn't see this I would have gone home empty handed.

what $20 got me
The extra bench plane iron is still sharp and has a bit of life left to it. The block plane iron is sharp also but it's not made for this #120 block plane. I found this out when I took it apart. Lastly, the lateral adjust lever came from the bench plane. Found that out too when I took it down to parade rest.

#120 stanley block plane
I know nothing about this block plane or any other of the stanley block planes. The plane works as I took a few swipes off of a piece of pine. It's missing the front knob and it looks like that screws on because the post is threaded.

bottom
It's grungy and dirty but there doesn't appear to be any rust on it. It also appears to be flat and straight.

the surprise
The lever adjust for moving the iron up and down is something that I have never seen before. And from the wear on the iron this plane it was used a lot.  Other than the knob being MIA, everything else appears to be present and accounted for. The spin wheel isn't cocked or bent which is something I can't say for the new block planes I have now. The extra iron is a definite no fit for this block plane.


no problems making shavings
it's bigger then my LN block plane

I have no desire to keep this or try to rehab it in any way or fashion. I bought this strictly for the bench plane and the extra bench plane iron. If any reader wants this, send me $5.50 and I'll mail it to you in a small priority USPS box. I'll throw in the extra block plane iron too as I don't need it neither. But before you stampede off to fire me an email, read what Patrick Leach wrote about the #120 here.

I'm pretty sure that this is a type 11 (I still think it's a #3 here)

Everything is here. This is where I found out about the lateral adjust lever. I initially thought that I had a pre-lateral adjust plane but I was wrong. There is a frog adjust screw so that immediately ruled out this being a pre-lateral type. The wood dust appears to be mahogany but I could be wrong on that. I'm hoping that I can peen the lateral adjust lever back on.

this may be a major problem
There is a hole in the sole behind the mouth on the left side.

it goes all the way through the sole
This doesn't look a new hole to me. The shavings were packed in here and the edges of the hole are just as dirty and grungy looking as the rest of the plane. I plan on converting this into a scrub plane using the Paul Sellers you tube video to give me the how to. I don't think this hole will be a problem especially so that I'll be using this as a scrub plane. This is also where I saw the stanley #4 embossed on the toe.

However,  just to play it safe,  I'm going to put some JBL epoxy in the hole. I've never used this type of epoxy before but I read of others using of it. I may experiment with it first to make sure that I can sand and file it.

rosewood knob and tote
The both of these are very dirty but they seem to be intact without any previous repairs. There aren't any chips, dings, or gouges on either of them too. These should clean up and look real nice.

threaded rod for the tote was seized
A couple of squirts of liquid wrench and I was able to unscrew the rod. All the parts are here with no MIA's.

a bath for all the small parts
I am not going to go nutso with this rehab. I want to get rid of the surface rust and make this presentable. It's going to be a scrub plane so good enough will be allowed here. I'll let all the small parts soak until tomorrow and then I'll rinse and clean them up. The brass parts I'll do separately.

With the posting of this entry, I have reached a milestone for me. This is blog post number 1500.  If I can keep this up I should be posting number 2000 sometime in 2016.

accidental woodworker

more useless trivia
How many degrees can a great horned owl turn it's head?
answer - 270 degrees